seesaw for big kids
I built a big kids see saw using 2x6's all around with a 2x8 seat. The center post is 30"h.
I built a big kids see saw using 2x6's all around with a 2x8 seat. The center post is 30"h.
Time to get organized in 2017....and what better way than with some custom shelving. This was not too bad of a project to complete. It only took about 6-8 hours to cut, frame, and assemble everything together (thanks to an interruption or two). 'Twas nice to have a project for once that I didn't have to care about finishing the project with wood filler, sanding, painting. I am sure my wife thanks me more as I would have been another week getting things just right!
A few changes that I made from the original plans:
- used 2x8 for the shelving runs as I only was dealing with a 10ft run and was a few bucks cheaper to buy 8 boards vs 16 boards. Plus less cuts!!!
-installed adjustable furniture feet in the supports to deal with sloping basement floor. Unexpected side effect was it was easier to slide the unit around in the basement as I assembled it.
Outside of those changes I remained faithful to the original design. I didn't bother filling the screw holes as we will be hiding the shelving unit with a curtain once we turn the room into a TV/Office area.
Also as it wasn't 100% clear from the original plans, but the height measurements for the shelf supports are to center... not sure why it didn't register with me right away... but just in case anyone else didn't realize that as well.
This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.
Tue, 04/27/2021 - 18:09
I am so interested in doing this, but would like more details on how the drop leaf was constructed. Would it be possible to get more information?
In reply to I am so interested in doing… by haartd
Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59
Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
I used Ana's Freestanding Shelf plan and customized it to fit my needs. I incorporated laundry and recycle storage, a rolling bench and built in for our chest freezer. If you want to see it being built with some added tips, that video is available here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8w7XGiVMbs&t=258s
These are made from the three drawer plans but modified the size to meet our needs and used planks for shelves instead of drawers. Painted white and black gel stain.
UPDATE FROM ANA - We have received MANY requests for this plan and have created a plan inspired by this post here.
Shopping List (for ONE bedside table) + Tools
Cut List (for ONE bedside table)
Cut 1x4s and 1x2s with miter saw. Layout side panel 1x4s as shown above. Measure and cut 1x2 to length. Nail the 1x2 to the 1x4s, two nails per overlap with glue. Make sure your side panels are square. Build two.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes on inside edge of 1x4 ends as shown above. Cut 2x2s with compound miter saw. Attach to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Set Kreg Jig to 1-1/2" setting. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on end of each 2x2, one per end. Attach to 2x2s with wood glue as shown above.
Cut 1x4 shelf boards with compound miter saw. Nail and glue to the inside of the project as shown above.
Cut 1x4 top boards with compound miter saw. Nail and glue to top with 1-1/4" nails and wood glue.
If you wish to add a back, measure and cut from 1/4" plywood and attach with 3/4" brad nails.
Mon, 02/12/2018 - 16:24
Is there plans for this one? Its gorgeous and I'd love to build it!
In reply to Is there plans for this one? by laurahamer07
Thu, 06/07/2018 - 15:37
Hello, this nightstand was built using these plans http://www.ana-white.com/2011/06/reclaimed-wood-look-bedside-table instead of adding drawers the builder added shelves. The shelves can be 3/4" plywood or 1x boards.
In reply to bedside end tables by karenlouder
Thu, 06/07/2018 - 15:40
Hello, this nightstand was built using this plan, but instead of drawers, simply measure and cut shelves to fit from 3/4" plywood. http://www.ana-white.com/2011/06/reclaimed-wood-look-bedside-table
Wed, 07/24/2019 - 09:24
It's taken us a couple of weekends, but we finished our bedside table. We made two, but one still needs painting.
Thank you for the plans. We had a great deal of fun and learning experience making these.
Want to see it? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2830583376957272&set=pcb.283058…
This was a build from a picture and made to fit into a space we have in the laundry room. Used the Kreg jig for much of it.
Tue, 06/05/2018 - 14:52
Awesome laundry sorter! Can't wait to see the paint/stain!
Thanks so much for sharing a brag post - much appreciated!
Ana
I used pocket holes to hide the screws. I made an ottoman out of the outdoor coffee table plans to my dimensions that can be used as a coffee table when we need it.
We were looking at buying this table at Restoration Hardware but couldn't get over the price. I love the look of the table but didn't want to take out a mortgage on it. Once I came across this plan, it was game over. Went out, got the supplies, and had it built before my wife knew what I was doing. It is built like a tank and even my kids can't hurt this! We get so many compliments on it , thanks!
Mon, 04/11/2016 - 07:56
Beautiful!! The chairs go perfectly with the style!
And BTW, what about that wine rack on wheels?!? Did you make it, too? Love that! :) Would love to see a plan for that!
Mon, 04/11/2016 - 12:48
Thanks! We found that wine rack at a store here in Phoenix. I thought about making one from scratch but I definitely was in over my head. We love it though
Tue, 04/12/2016 - 10:48
Thanks for the info on the wine rack! Maybe Ana can add it to her list to make and add a for us! Hint, hint, Ana! :)
This table is very nice and so simple and inexpensive. Just choose your lumber selectively. I used prime 2x4's for higher quality.
This is our attempt at the Fancy X Farmhouse Table. My husband and I built this over a weekend. We modified our table from the plans, making ours shorter and wider. We also added extensions and changed out a few boards for a bit of a different look from the exact plan. We created a custom finish with a few cheap and easy steps to get the look we wanted. Our table is 84" long by 46" wide. The original plans for the table called for it to be 96" long by 37" wide. We added a fifth board to our table top, thus making our tabletop 9.25" wider (since a 2x10 is actually 9.25" wide.) To account for this, we simply increased the width of the base boards by 9.25". As for the length, since our table was 12" shorter than the plan, we decreased the length of the two support boards running between the bases by 12" to account for that. We had to adjust the length of our decorative pieces somewhat, because of the wider base and shorter length. It was bit of trial and error but we were happy with what came out of it. For the center base post, instead of using 2x4's we used one 4x4 which was clean, square, and straight. We were happy with how things turned out for the base. Perhaps our biggest alteration was the fact that we added extensions to each end. To do this, we cut out 3.5" slots in the top of the base so a 2x4 could slide in. We then took two 2x8's and used pocket holes to bring them nice and tight. With the extensions in place, our table is nearly 10 feet long! As for the finish, we wanted a weathered gray color and were able to come up with it through a three step process. Its really beautiful in person! Thanks again for the plan
Sun, 07/22/2012 - 15:26
Your new table is really very beautiful. The previous one was also very nice, great job!
Thu, 07/26/2012 - 06:37
Wow! Great addition of the extensions. I'm saving this for our build.
Tue, 08/07/2012 - 03:10
Could you possibly give me a detailed explanation of how you finished this table? I love, love, love the color and want to replicate it.
Thanks!
Darcy
Tue, 09/25/2012 - 09:06
Beautiful table, but I really want some information on the 3-step process you used to get the weathered gray look. Can you please provide that information? Thanks!
Tue, 10/23/2012 - 07:46
How did you create that Gray Weatered finish? Also what type of wood did you use?
Sun, 04/07/2013 - 20:40
Thank you for your interest in the finish....we used regular pine from Orange and Blue. We used a mixture of steel wool and vinegar in a glass jar, let it sit for a night or two, then brushed it on evenly over each board. We then let that sit for a night or two and then proceed to whitewash the entire table (two parts water one part paint.) After that, we took Dark Walnut Stain and wiped it over each board, then quickly wiped/scrubbed it off after just a minute or two. That's how we did it!
Id suggest practicing first with some scrap , esp. with the steel wool mixture so you can see how the wood changes. :)
Fri, 09/23/2016 - 15:24
Hi Emily!
I love your table. We are about to make one and love your stain. Would you be so kind to give me details of what you used to achieve the look? I read the above post, but could you give me brands and colors? I don't understand what is steel wash- is that the color?
Thank you so much!
FLKS
Mon, 09/09/2013 - 11:40
but when we brushed on the steel wool/vinegar mixture, the holes on the table top and base that we had filled in with putty didn't really stain...did you run across the problem? I don't see any areas on the top of your table where you can tell where the holes were??
Wed, 04/09/2014 - 09:05
I'm curious if you made the extensions permanent or if they can be removed and added as you need? I love this table!
Thanks,
Wed, 08/13/2014 - 11:50
I am not understanding how you made the extensions from your description and then looking at the end pictures... Would you please explain this a little further and how they are stored and placed for use and how this works? Thank you!
Tue, 10/07/2014 - 17:39
LOVE the finished product! I aim to get the hubby to make this one at some point! But for now, we have just a bench in our kitchen that he made and I'd like to apply the same finish you did. I've looked at a bunch of different tutorials but I like yours the best. Here's the question...how long after I apply the paint/water mixture to I apply the walnut stain? Do I apply the water/paint and wipe off right away? A few seconds later? A minute later? Do I allow the applied/wiped water/paint mixture to dry completely before adding the stain or do I want to apply the stain before it's throughly dry so that it mixes a bit for a softer look? Thanks so much!
Custom shoe bench I built for a friend. See post on blog for more detail:
http://www.tools4moms.com/2012/06/build-corner-shoe-bench.html
One day project with hubby! Wanted a wood set, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. Bought tools, wood, supplies, and cushions for under the cost of one online!
OK, I think this build may be my biggest project yet! It is definitely the heaviest. With the strong winds we can get here in Florida we needed substantial outdoor furniture.
I did make some modifications along the way measurement-wise so the sofa would fit my front porch better. All in all, this took 2 full days. I built the sofa first, stained it the next day and then decided (due to trying to get stain in all the nooks and crannies) to stain the chair pieces first before putting it together.
I am so happy with the results and so far, almost a year later, this furniture looks great and hasn't moved an inch in any of the thunderstorms we've had! Thank you Ana!!
Adirondack chairs made from reclaimed pallets.
Mon, 01/09/2017 - 19:28
These plans were great! Have these as a Christmas gift....they loved it!
I loved this design. I couldn't believe that they wanted to charge me almost $600 for the pedestals for the washer/dryer set that I bought on black friday, so I decided to give this project a go. I basically used the same construction plans from Sausha's project, but I dressed mine up a bit. First, I chose a bit larger trim for the tops and bottoms of the posts. Then, I bought some 2" baseboards and did the top and bottom with baseboards. On the bottom, I had to use my tablesaw to trim off about 1/2" because I used 1x1" boards on the bottom so that I could have more space for baskets. Then, on the top, I inverted the baseboard and allowed it to overlap a bit so that if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer could not fall off the edge. I also added some fabric on the top (stuff that I use to cover the bunk boards on my boat trailer...kind of like a very thick and durable felt material) to cut down on vibration and also keep the units in place. Finally, I added sides by using wedge trusses on the inside of my side posts and then I put a 1/8" piece of plywood over top and nailed/glued it to the trusses.
It turned out great. Thanks for the plans Sausha!
In reply to Nice Detail by earthbybike
Mon, 12/08/2014 - 11:42
Thanks. Yeah, I thought that it did really dress things up. I really like the way it turned out.
Mon, 12/21/2015 - 17:38
Did you use sanded plywood? Did you use any veneers for the exposed 2x4's to get a smooth finish or did you paint right on it?
lastly, what is the name of the trim you put on the 4x4s? I've hard a hard time finding it. Thank you!
Mon, 12/21/2015 - 17:44
Did you plane the 2x4s? Because they look really straight.
In reply to Question... by Zlk200
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 13:59
Sorry for the super delayed response. I didn't realize this question was here. I did not plane anything. I did sand the surfaces a bit, but I didn't get too crazy. I put 3 thick coats of paint on it which made it pretty smooth. If you look very closely in person, you can still see a bit of wood grain, but it is only noticable if you really get down and look. I did use a lot of wood putty to fill all of the gaps and crevaces and then I sanded those parts pretty well.
With regard to the trim, the top literally just standard baseboard material turned upside down, and then the little trim on the tops and bottoms of the 4x4s is just another standard strip of moulding that I got from Lowes. I think they call it "Chair Rail" moulding. Its the stuff that you put down if you are doing some sort of paint separation or wainscoting.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/1-625-in-x-12-ft-Mdf-Chair-Rail/3403018
I used woodglue on all of the moulding and tacked it on with a nail gun. Then I filled all of the nail holes with wood putty and also use the putty to fill gaps where the corners came together to make that look smooth.
I hope that helps...you are probably already done with your project by now, but I figured that I would answer anyway. :)
I used Ana’s Shelf Help Configurator to build these shelves for a deeply sloped ceiling. None of those well known Closet Organizer Companies could come up with a decent plan for this closet and they charge a small fortune.
I made these two Ana White outdoor end tables for my patio. Next up will be the matching coffee table
Sun, 01/29/2023 - 16:04
Thanks for sharing, they will be a nice outdoor additon!
Adirondack chairs from your plans. My husband added some rounding on the arms and back. We wanted them to look like well weathered beach chairs. To get that effect we used milk paint which lets the grain show through.
The best addition are the two wooden wheels on the back leg of the chairs, I can now easily move them around my patio.
Mon, 05/06/2019 - 11:10
What a gorgeous seating area and what a seal! Love the wheels too!
Well, I started with one chair and finished with a full set. Not bad for a first timer. Definitely room to improve. Little tip if you're going to make this amazing set... raise the backs as they are too low with thicker cushions. I built a casing to go on top after the fact. Pretty happy with how it all turned out. Thanks Ana for the plans... now onto the next project!
Fri, 04/28/2023 - 08:41
Very nice workmanship. I'm curious as to how comfortable they are with the straight 90* backs? Let me know please at [email protected]. Again nice workmanship.
Fri, 04/28/2023 - 08:41
Very nice workmanship. I'm curious as to how comfortable they are with the straight 90* backs? Let me know please at [email protected]. Again nice workmanship.
Full size storage bed with trundle. Three drawers and a trundle on one side and four drawers on the other. I started with the farmhouse design (headboard and footboard) and modified it to make it not so heavy and I designed the rest using SketchUp. See more photos in blog link.
This was a build I was able to check off my Honey-do List. We use it as a Trash / Recycling Cabinet. Basic cabinet build with tray drawers for the trash cans.