DIY Porch Swing by The Little Homesteader
DIY Porch Swing - Perfect for any season!
DIY Porch Swing - Perfect for any season!
We are remodeling our 3 bedroom house into a 4 bedroom. In doing so, my youngest is getting the smaller room. We decided to go with a Murphy bed to allow more play time space. I do not particularly like the fact that this bed doesn’t sit off the ground but overall love the simplicity of making it. We turned it horizontal and just love the overall product. I can mot wait to make something else from this site!
Tams
Followed Anna White’s plans except I beveled all the edges and flooded the table leg bottoms with penetrating epoxy sealer. The table looks great!
Love these plans! Made a modification and added backs to the chairs. Also, built ottomans to match the chairs which can also be used as additional seating.
Many compliments on the set. Thanks Ana!
Since moving and finding Knock Off Wood, we decided now would be a good idea to try some gardening (again...after failed attempts!) These beds are so simple but beautiful out in the yard and for the first time I actually have vegetables growing. We used the cedar fence posts just as Ana suggested.
I made a couple of additions/modifications
I also made a couple of side tables and foot stools for the chairs. A total of four chairs, two tables and two foot stools for the deck set.
I didn't really follow any of Ana's plans for this build, but it is a result of using her plans up to this point in my woodworking journey that enabled me to complete this one! I don't own a table saw, so this was constructed using a circular saw, miter saw, Kreg jig, and a nail gun. It was the first time I've had to cut and attach crown molding, and I also learned how to cope baseboard trim using a Dremel. Another first was using a router to rabbet out the back so the plywood back wasn't visible from the sides. I learn something new every build :)
I'm thrilled with the change in the room with this new project. We had two narrower bookcases side-by-side in there before, and they were about the height of the windows with a stain color that didn't match any of the other wood pieces in the rooms. This cabinet looks like it belongs in the room.
Thu, 12/27/2012 - 07:54
Very well done. It fits right in and looks absolutely beautiful. I am working and practicing to reach your skill level so I can do amazing things too!
With the help of friends and family, we managed to build this greenhouse rather easily. We had to start with the foundation since the spot we chose was not an even grade. We did this by filling sono tubes with cement and leveling each off so the greenhouse would have a solid place to sit. We then built out a frame around the outside of the cement tubes with some reclaimed 6x6's. After that, we filled the space with 5 tons of river rock and then got to work! After the foundation was ready putting the rest of the house together was a piece of cake. The frame was so easy to put together. We had a few minor kinks to work out here and there, I won't say this house came out 100% perfectly, BUT I am so happy with the end results. We chose to paint it a deep green color as a final touch. So far we just moved a few potted plants from our deck to the greenhouse for the winter. It has been working very well to keep the plants cozy during the colder days we've had. Eventually, I plan to build a potting station, shelving, and most likely a garden bed for winter harvests.
Mon, 11/09/2020 - 09:52
The foundation looks great the greenhouse looks amazing! I'm sure fun was had building it too:) Thanks for sharing.
We used the shoe dresser instructions with some modifications to make it longer
This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.
Tue, 04/27/2021 - 18:09
I am so interested in doing this, but would like more details on how the drop leaf was constructed. Would it be possible to get more information?
In reply to I am so interested in doing… by haartd
Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59
Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
This locker cabinet was my first build and I learned a ton. For example:
1. Use the Kreg face clamps while drilling into the Kreg Jr.
2. Buy straight wood.
3. Buy wood that is not warped.
4. Do not try to buy wood with grouchy kids in tow.
Are you seeing a theme? Yep, your project will only be as square and perfect as the wood you buy.
I modified the locker plan to include apothecary-style drawers for our cell phones, sunglasses and chapstick. I also drilled through the back of one of the drawers to turn it into a charging station for our cell phones.
The locker has been super useful so far and is such a great way to keep my kids' backpacks and lunchboxes organized. The baskets are designated for my purse, stuff I need to return to stores, the dog's leashes, and library books. It's so nice to have all this stuff near the front door and never wonder where any of it is!
Took the farmhouse plan and added a Trundle. Was initially going to build two farmhouse beds for my two girls, but thought adding the Trundle would free up some much needed floor space. The girls love it!
Super easy and fun project! We altered the original plans to build a loveseat and had zero issues. We did add some extra support below.
I did not find 25”x25” cushions within our price range so I settled for 25”x22.5” and they work but ultimately 25x25 works best.
I made this play kitchen as a Christmas present for my kids, and it’s been a big hit! It’s built mostly from leftover hardwood plywood, and a couple of 1x12 pine boards. The oven knobs and faucet were cut from redwood scraps and attached with 1/2” dowels to freely rotate. The vertical surfaces were painted with leftover house paint and sealed with water-based polycrylic. It was a fun build, and I learned some new skills (like installing hinges)! Thanks for the plans!
Mon, 06/05/2023 - 07:50
WOW, this is just too cute, can I get one in my size please! Thank you so much for sharing, love your finish choices.
This was my first finished project using plans from Ana's site, and I am very pleased with the finished product. Every aspect of the finished sideboard is based on something from the site. I started with the plans for the Planked Wood Sideboard, and made no modifications as the dimensions were perfect for our basement family room. I decided to inset the back (http://www.friendly-home.net/2012/02/gigantic-rustic-sideboard.html) as Ana explained that Hillary had done, and love the final result. This will allow us to use this to potentially divide a room in an open concept space at some point in the future.
For the finishing process, I decided to follow the "Rustic Yet Refined" finish tutorial highlighted on both the Ana-White site (http://ana-white.com/2013/08/rustic-yet-refined-wood-finish) and Jen Woodhouse House of Wood (http://jenwoodhouse.com/blog/2013/06/07/diy-dining-table/). I fully intended to complete the 9 step process, but found that after we applied the Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner, followed by Minwax special walnut stain and wiped it off within 15-30 seconds, the finish mirrored the restoration hardware finish that we were going for. We decided not to proceed with layering on the weathered oak or applying the whitewash, and went straight to the spar urethane satin coats.
Overall, the project was a success, but was difficult to finish during the Minnesota winter as it was unbelievably cold and was forced to complete the finishing process in our basement/laundry room, which extended the length of the project. I am very excited to begin building other pieces from Ana's plans.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 10:01
Absolutely beautiful! Thank you for all the details on how you did this!
In reply to Absolutely beautiful! Thank by moosmani
Thu, 03/13/2014 - 07:09
Thank you so much for your kind words. I am extremely impressed with your brag posts as well, and you may have been inspired to take on the picket storage shed project as soon as the snow melts.
Farmhouse table made from distressed (worm hole) maple.
My neighbor was able to get me the 5/4 distressed maple for about $2/bd ft - I ended up buying 100 board feet and had plenty leftover. The finished board feet for this project was about 60 if I remember correctly. So the $200 was the bulk of the expense. The only other costs were sand paper, I bought a Kreg Jig, screws, Minwax Marker, paint, stain and urethane (much of which I already had).
It came out better than I anticipated. The antique white finish was not difficult at all.
Tip - When following the instructions for the finish here, I applied the first coat of urethane with a brush almost immediately after applying the Minwax marker to all of the sanded edges. I did this in haste, but ended up with some unexpected results that really added a nice touch. The stain from the marker incorporated a bit into the urethane as I brushed it giving it an antique, yellow hue. At first I thought I made a big mistake, but it turned out to add a really nice look.
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 07:29
CSaintD - The top can be removed as I did not glue it. I set 3 dowels on top of each of the 2 legs so that the top would always lign up correctly if disassembled and reasembled. The stretcher could be removed, but would probably cause some damage to the finish as it was a tight fight when I finished it. The stretcher would be removed by removing the dowel pegs that I fabricated on each leg.
In reply to Disassembly by g82martin
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 08:21
Thanks. I really like the dowel pegs on the legs/stretcher. Very nice top finishing as well. Did you square the boards to get them to be so smooth when joined?
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 08:26
I cheated a bit on the top. My neighbor who got me the wood works in a furniture reupholsery shop. He planed and joined the boards for me, which saved me a good amount of time. I'm confident I could have done this at home with my table saw, miter saw and hand plane, but what he did in 2 hours probably would have taken me 10.
Fri, 08/05/2016 - 20:35
Love the dowels you added! Planning on building this exact table pretty close to your dimensions and have a very long church pew as well! Trying to decide between L-ing my pew and cutting to straigjy 6'. Do you mind sharing the dimensions of your pew? And how did you miter the pew?
Tue, 01/21/2020 - 09:40
Beautiful table. I love the pegs added to the legs and stretcher, they add a historic detail lost in a lot of today's building techniques
I used cedar and added the extra boards so the cushions would stay put. We also made the arms 2x6 boards so we wouldn’t need end tables for the couch. The plans were super easy to follow. I mostly used pocket holes so the screws wouldn’t be visible. Love how it came out! Thank you for the plans, Ana!!
I liked the simple design of the camp loft bed, so I took the plan and modified it to fit over top of our existing Ikea daybed. I adjusted the width of the loft bed and made it a little taller, so that I could sit on the bottom bed and read to the kids with out hitting my head on the loft bed all the time.
I built the ladder into the side of the loft bed so that it wouldn't interfere with the drawers on the front of the daybed. This worked out well, as it also gives the girls more room to play!
This build is super easy, but I have to say that I don't like working with 2x4s. They are so rough....I spent a lot of time sanding and filling, and it's still not perfect. But I'm ok with it ;) I may add another cross support because it is a bit wobbly (probably b/c I made it taller).
The finish is a color matched 'All surface enamel' from Sherwin Williams.
Wed, 08/04/2021 - 06:38
Hello Millhouse. I love the loft bed you created. I have the exact hemnes daybed for my daughter and I beg to build the same loft bed. Do you have the exact modified plan you used with the measurements that fit the bottom bed? This would be super helpful!! Thanks in advance!
Not too bad of a project but had to a good bit of guess work so I could changed the plans for a queen size bed and flip in on its side.
Sun, 05/29/2016 - 18:50
Good evening!
I am new at wood working, and would be very interrested in knowing the different measurements you changed to get from a twin to queen murphy bed. If it is posted on this page, I tried but couldn't find it. Thank you for your help. Have a good day.
Marie-Julie
These are the adirondack chairs and I took the basic model and added a wine glass holder and also a bottle/snack bag holder.
Fri, 08/21/2020 - 20:10
Any chance on sharing your plan for what you added on? I’d love to make this as a gift for my MIL!